This picture, above, shows very clearly what rip currents look like. The water flows in towards the beach over shallow water or sandbanks (The water is a lighter colour and waves break evenly over these areas) and to get back out to sea it often forms a rip – or “river” of water – between two sand banks ( waves seldom break in a rip and the water is darker green because it is deeper).
Rip currents claim the lives of many people each year. Below is a description of how to spot them and what to do when caught in one.
This picture by NSRI volunteer Torsten Henschel clearly shows a rip current ( dark green on the right) at natures valley.
What is a rip current? Rips are able to develop anywhere there are breaking waves, these “rivers” of current produced by water draining from the beach and back out to sea happen all the the time.
Often rips move slow enough to barely be detected. But given the right circumstances of waves and beach profile, they can develop into currents moving at speeds of up to 2 metres per second – faster than any of us can swim. Ranging in size from just a few feet to hundreds of yards, their pull can be to just outside the breaking waves to over two hundred metres from shore.
Often the water flows parallel to the beach close to the shore (a side current) and then rips out. Picture Torsten Henschel.
How to spot a rip current: As with all risks, avoiding rips altogether is safest. Though not always visually detectable – stronger rip currents can give off some telltale signs.
Water through a surf zone that is a different color than the surrounding water
A break in the incoming pattern of waves
seaweed or debris moving out through the surf zone
Isolated turbulent and choppy water in the surf zone
Often, the best resource to help you avoid rip currents – not surprisingly – are the lifesavers.
Swim only where lifesavers are on duty, and if they are not on duty do not go deeper than your knee.
If avoidance fails: If you are caught in a rip current the primary thing to so is to stay calm and relax. You are not going to win a fight with the ocean. Swim slowly and conservatively parallel to the shoreline or relax and let it carry you out past the breakers until it slacks.
Contrary to myth – rip currents are not “undertow,” which a misleading term. They will not pull you under the water. So long as you can tread water or float you will be safe until you can escape the flow and head back to the beach. When you head back in, do so at an angle to the shoreline. Again, maintain a slow and relaxed pace until you reach the shore or assistance arrives. If you are swimming at a beach where lifesavers are on duty ─ and you should be ─ they will most likely have seen you and will be on their way out to help (or be watching carefully).
Other tips:
Talk to the lifesavers about local hazards before getting in the water.
[Experienced] surfers go out when it’s rough because it’s fun and they are tethered to huge boards that float. If you’re not VERY comfortable in rough water over your head – stay out of rough water totally. You’re not ready.
NEVER swim alone.
There is nothing wrong with making your young children wear approved life jackets to play in the surf. That doesn’t mean you can leave them alone – but it will make them safer.
Discuss rip currents and how to deal with them with your children. In fact, make them read every page of http://www.ripcurrents.noaa.gov/ and write you a report.
Swim only on beaches where lifesavers are on duty. That has been said twice for a reason.
- NSRI
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